Friday, March 26, 2010

Water Heaters: 5 Tips for Saving Energy

Article From, By: Joe Bousquin
Water heating accounts for up to 25% of household energy costs, but there are inexpensive things you can do to increase efficiency and reduce energy bills.
In the fight to save energy, your water heater is a born loser. That's because most houses in this country have a conventional storage-type water heater. That 50-gallon tank in the basement wants to keep water hot, so it will be ready whenever you turn on the tap. But as the water sits, it naturally begins to cool down, a process known as standby heat loss. When it does, the burner or heating element kicks on to warm it up again, in a constantly repeating cycle. According to the Department of Energy, water heating accounts for 14% to 25% of your household's total energy costs. But there are easy, low-cost steps you can take to reduce standby losses-and your hot-water bill, too. Try these five, and you'll start seeing a difference right away.

Wrap your heater in a blanket

Just as you wouldn't send little Susie out into the cold without a jacket, your water heater needs help to stay warm, especially if it's in an unheated space. A fiberglass insulating blanket can cut heat loss by 25% to 40% and save 4% to 9% on the average water-heating bill of $308, according to the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy ( (ACEEE).
Insulating blankets are cheap, usually less than $30 at the home center, and it's easy to install one yourself. Follow the included directions, and take care not to block the thermostat on an electric water heater or the air inlet, exhaust, or top of the tank on a gas unit.
If your water heater is fairly new, check the manufacturer's recommendations first. Many newer units already have insulating foam built in; on these models, an after-market jacket could block a critical component.

Install low-flow fixtures

One of the surest ways to cut hot water costs is to use less of it. According to the ACEEE, a family of four uses 700 gallons of hot water per week. By installing low-flow showerheads ( and faucet aerators, which cost as little as $10 to $20 each, you can cut hot water consumption by 25% to 60%. These devices are easy to install and will save 14,000 gallons of hot water annually, plus the energy it takes to heat it. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency ( estimates the average U.S. household water bill at $474 a year. By cutting water consumption in half, you'll save more than $200 annually.

Turn down the temperature

Many water heaters come from the factory with the temperature set needlessly high. For every 10 degrees you turn it down, you'll save another 3% to 5% on your bill, according to ACEEE. A setting between 120 and 140 degrees is plenty hot for most uses. Just don't go below 120 degrees, which could lead to the unsafe growth of bacteria inside the tank.
If the thermostat on your water heater doesn't have a numbered gauge, put it midway between the "low" and "medium" marks. Wait a day, then measure the temperature at the tap with a standard cooking thermometer. Keep adjusting this way until you hit your target temperature.

Drain the sediment

Tanks naturally build up sediment, which reduces the unit's efficiency and makes it more expensive to operate. "Imagine an inch of sand inside your water heater," explains David Chisholm of manufacturer State Water Heaters. "When you get a layer at the bottom of the tank, you have to heat up that sediment before you can heat up the water."
Draining the tank is relatively easy. Turn off the water and power to the unit (set the burner on a gas unit to "pilot". Then connect a garden hose to the spigot at the base of the tank. With the other end of the hose at a lower spot outside the house where discharging hot water poses no danger, carefully lift the pressure-relief valve at the top of the tank and turn on the spigot; water should begin to flow. While most manufacturers recommend draining the tank once or twice a year, you don't have to drain it completely; in fact, the Department of Energy ( recommends draining less water more often-just a quart every three months.

Insulate exposed hot-water pipes

Like blanketing the tank, wrapping hot-water pipes with insulation reduces standby losses. Water arrives at the tap 2 to 4 degrees warmer, which means you won't have to stand around as long waiting for it to heat up, thus saving water, energy, and money. While this isn't an expensive job to do yourself-six-foot-long, self-sealing sleeves easily slip over pipes and cost about $2.50 each-it could take some effort, depending on where your hot water pipes are. Exposed pipes in the basement are an easy target, but if pipes are in a hard-to-reach crawl space or inside walls, it might not be worth the trouble.
Joe Bousquin's work has appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Kiplinger's Personal Finance, and Men's Journal. The owner of a 79-year-old home in Sacramento, Calif., he has a new reverence for his water heater.

Smitha Ramchandani is a licensed real estate Broker-Salesperson in Morristown, New Jersey. She is a Buyer Specialist and a Home Marketing Expert.. You can reach Smitha and her team online at: or or or or or or

Tax Credits for Replacing Windows, Doors, and Skylights

Article From, By: Gil Rudawsky
If money seems to be escaping through drafty windows, doors, and skylights, this federal tax credit might make energy-efficient replacements more affordable.
Does it feel like money is escaping through your home's drafty windows, doors, and skylights? You might be able to keep at least some of that cash in your pocket by taking advantage of federal energy tax credits for retrofitting your house with qualified energy-efficient replacements. You can claim a tax credit of up to $1,500 for upgrading the windows, exterior doors, and skylights in your primary residence during 2009 and 2010.
The credit is based on 30% of the cost of materials, so a $5,000 purchase would max it out. But a tax credit alone isn't reason enough to start calling contractors. Do a little homework first. The true value of replacing aging windows, doors, and skylights isn't always an open-and-shut case.

Follow the 15-year rule for windows

A good rule of thumb for window replacement: Don't bother if they're less than 15 years old, says Jim Rooney, a home inspector in Annapolis, Md. The savings on your energy bills likely will be negligible since window technology hasn't changed that radically and the integrity of your windows should still be intact. Shoddy installation or poor manufacturing may call for exceptions to the 15-year rule. Windows that are 20, 30, or more years old are prime candidates for replacement.
Most of your focus should be on windows, since they're more numerous, but skylights are notorious for energy loss too, not to mention water leaks. Exterior doors tend to outlast windows, so keep them unless the upgrade is purely for aesthetic reasons. Besides, weather stripping and snug sweeps can boost the energy efficiency of exterior doors for a whole lot less money.

Adding up the costs-and savings

With windows, doors, and skylights, you get what you pay for. Expect to shell out between $500 and $1,000 per window including installation, or about $10,000 total for a moderately sized house of about 2,000 square feet. New energy-credit-qualified doors and skylights are also in the $500 to $1,000 range, including installation.
Tom Herron, of the National Fenestration Rating Council (, says products on the higher end of the cost scale are usually better constructed and more energy efficient. NFRC is a non-profit organization that administers the rating and labeling system for the energy performance of windows, doors, and skylights.
It could take years to recoup the upfront costs, but you should see an immediate reduction in your energy bills. In general, you'll save $126 to $465 a year if single-pane windows in a 2,000 square foot house are replaced with tax-credit-eligible windows, according to the Efficient Windows Collaborative, a trade group. That's 15% to 40% off the typical energy bill.

Do my replacements qualify?

A label alone doesn't guarantee your new windows, doors, and skylights qualify for the energy tax credit, but it does provide critical information related to eligibility. To qualify, windows, doors, and skylights must have a U-factor ( of 0.30 or less and a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient ( (SHGC) of 0.30 or less. The U-factor measures how well a product prevents heat from escaping, and the SHGC gauges how well a product blocks heat from the sun. Labels also carry information on light transmission, air leakage, and condensation resistance.
Herron, of the NFRC, says about 80% to 85% of the manufacturers in North America provide NFRC labels. All Energy Star qualified windows carry an NFRC label (, according to Energy Star, a joint program of the U.S. Department of Energy and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency that promotes energy-efficient products and practices.
Resist the urge to trim costs by purchasing cheaper windows, doors, and skylights with poor U-factor and SHGC ratings. Not only will you miss out on the tax credit, energy bills won't come down much.

Taking advantage of the tax credit

A credit is especially valuable because it directly reduces the amount of tax owed, as opposed to a deduction, which lowers the amount of taxable income. To be eligible for the full credit you must owe more in federal taxes than you're trying to claim. Use IRS Form 5695 to take advantage of the credit, which is cumulative for 2009 and 2010 only. You can't claim $1,500 for each tax year, but you can spread the $1,500 over the two-year period.
Uncle Sam may want proof that your new windows, doors, and skylights meet energy-efficiency standards, so be sure to save receipts, product stickers, and certification statements. The latter can often be found on packaging or manufacturers' web sites. As for receipts, ask contractors to itemize expenses. Installation costs aren't eligible for the credit; only materials are.
Keep in mind that a variety of energy-efficiency improvements to your existing home, including insulation, roofs, and HVAC, count toward the credit limit. You can't claim separate $1,500 credits for each upgrade, nor can you claim the credit for a newly built home. Matt Golden, president and founder of San Francisco-based Sustainable Spaces (, says homeowners can often lower energy costs for a lot less, and still get the tax credit, by insulating attics ( instead.
This article provides general information about tax laws and consequences, but is not intended to be relied upon by readers as tax or legal advice applicable to particular transactions or circumstances. Readers should consult a tax professional for such advice, and are reminded that tax laws may vary by jurisdiction.
Gil Rudawsky has been covering business and consumer issues as a reporter and an editor for 18 years, most recently as a deputy editor at the Rocky Mountain News. He lives in a house built in the 1930s, and always keeps the home's character in mind when making upgrades.

Smitha Ramchandani is a licensed real estate Broker-Salesperson in Morristown, New Jersey. She is a Buyer Specialist and a Home Marketing Expert.. You can reach Smitha and her team online at: or or or or or or

Monday, March 8, 2010

A Financial Plan for Your Home

Article From By: Richard Koreto Published: August 28, 2009
Your home is probably the biggest investment you'll ever make. Create a financial plan that takes into account repairs, upgrades, mortgages, insurance, and taxes.
You probably already have a financial plan for yourself in place. Most likely you sat down with an adviser at some point to set up a budget and diversify your investments. Or maybe you did it yourself online or at the dining room table.
But what about your home specifically, probably the biggest investment you'll ever make? Did you really take everything into account: repairs and upgrades, the mortgage, insurance, and taxes? Probably not.
You need a separate financial plan for your home. Spend a weekend creating one. Once you have a handle on your home's expenses, you can devise a long-term strategy that'll let you live there for years with maximum enjoyment and minimum anxiety.

The mortgage: Paying it-and then some

Yes, you already shell out a lot for your mortgage, but can you pay more? Even a little extra each month can add up. Let's say you have $200,000 outstanding principal and a 20-year fixed-rate mortgage at 5%. Your monthly payment is $1,319.91. But if you can manage to pay another $100 a month, you'll save $14,887 in interest. Run the numbers ( for yourself.
Alan D. Kahn, a financial planner in Syosset, N.Y., likes the idea of early payoff because lowering debt leaves you free to spend money elsewhere later on. There's an emotional benefit as well. It can feel awfully good to own your house outright as soon as possible. And don't fret too much about losing the mortgage interest deduction come tax time. Toward the tail end of the life of a loan most of your payment is going to the principal, not the interest.
Nevertheless, the same extra $100 might also go into a retirement plan every month, or be put aside for the inevitable home repairs (more on those later). Michael Kay, a financial planner in Livingston, N.J., says while a debt-free life may be enormously important to your peace of mind, an extra $1,200 toward your child's college fund every year may feel even better. It's about what's ultimately important to you, both emotionally and financially.

Insurance: Protecting your property

You'll want homeowners insurance with full replacement coverage ( in case your house is burned to the ground. This sounds simple, but be careful on the calculation. Remember that you own a house as well as the land on which it sits. So even though you bought your home for $300,000, it may cost only $100,000 to rebuild it. Your policy limits should reflect this.
The differences are regional. Where land is at a premium, like much of Southern California, a higher percentage of the purchase cost is for the property rather than the structure. Where land is cheap, like much of North Dakota, most of the value of a new house is the house itself. Don't be deceived by shifts in market values. You may have bought a $1.2 million townhouse in Florida during the boom that now may only sell for $600,000. But the replacement cost of the townhouse hasn't changed much, so you can't cut insurance costs that way.
Do, however, try to cut costs by asking your insurance agent about discounts. Making structural improvements, such as adding storm shutters, can lead to lower rates. Membership is certain groups, such as AARP or veterans' organizations, entitles some policyholders to breaks on premiums as well.

Repairs and renovations: By choice or necessity

Throughout the life of your house, you'll be making two kinds of changes. The first is the fun kind, like a marble floor for the living room. The second is the essential, behind-the-scenes change: a new water heater. You don't have a choice about when you'll do the latter, but you can prepare for it financially.
It's a good idea to have a rainy-day fund. Start with the inspection report you received when you bought the house. Did the inspector indicate that you would need a new roof in five years? A new furnace in 10? Get estimates on what these repairs will cost and start saving. Consider ongoing non-emergency maintenance too. Do you live in New England? Price a snow blower and get bids from plow services. Resist the temptation to take care of everything with home equity loans (, which defeat efforts to pay off the mortgage early.
As for the discretionary upgrades, act prudently. Matthew P. Havens, a financial planner in Hingham, Mass., has seen too many people rationalizing lavish upgrades as an investment when they really were lifestyle decisions. According to Remodeling magazine (, an upscale major kitchen upgrade, for example, could cost nearly $112,000, but only about 63% of that will be recouped in the home's resale value. This isn't to say you shouldn't upgrade. If you can afford to redo your bathrooms, go ahead. Just don't confuse your necessary repairs (new oil furnace-about $4,000) with your discretionary upgrades (Viking range-$6,000 and up).

Taxes: (Almost) no way around them

Taxes are an essential part of your home's financial plan. The bank that holds your mortgage may already handle your real estate taxes with an escrow account. If so the expense is built into your monthly mortgage payment. Check your statements or call the lender. Otherwise create a dedicated fund for property taxes, which can run into the thousands of dollars annually.
You may be able to reduce your tax burden by getting a reassessment. Do your homework first. Are comparable houses taxed less than yours? Ask the local assessor what formula is used to set tax rates. Kay, the New Jersey financial planner, researched and then challenged the assessed value ( of his own home and got a 15% rollback.
If you're in a special group, you might get some help from state or local programs. Check around to see what's available in your area. New York State, for example, has its Star Program ( for giving senior citizens some relief from school-related property taxes.
Richard J. Koreto is a freelance writer. He has been editor of several professional financial magazines and is the author of "Run It Like a Business," a practice management book for financial planners. He and his wife own a pre-Civil War house in Rockland County, N.Y.

Smitha Ramchandani is a licensed real estate Broker-Salesperson in Morristown West, New Jersey. She is a Buyer Specialist and a Home Marketing Expert.. You can reach Smitha and her team online at: or or or or or or

Sunday, March 7, 2010

January 2010 and February 2010 Condo and Townhome Sales Report- Morris County New Jersey Real Estate Recent Townhome/Condo Sales

January 2010 – February 2010 Condominium and Townhouse Sales Report - Morristown, Madison, Chatham, Denville, Randolph, Parsippany, Rockaway, Hanover, East Hanover, Montville, Morris Plains, Morris Township, Florham Park, Roxbury, Butler, Lincoln Park, Morris Twp., Mount Arlington, Mount Olive, Riverdale, Whippany, Washington Twp., New Jersey Real Estate

List Price
Sold Price
Butler Boro 271 WINTHROP DRIVE  $255,000 First Floor Unit 2 2 0 $245,000
Butler Boro 320 Cambridge Drive  $258,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2 0 $245,000
Butler Boro 234 TERRACE LAKE DRIVE  $369,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 1 $353,000
Chatham Boro 10 Schindler Court  $675,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 2 $660,000
Chatham Boro  2 SCHINDLER CT   $730,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 2 $710,000
Chatham Twp.  261 RIVEREDGE DR   $249,900 Townhouse-End Unit 1 1 1 $250,000
Chatham Twp.  257 RIVEREDGE DR   $265,000 Townhouse-End Unit 1 1 1 $260,000
Chatham Twp.  19i HERITAGE DR   $329,900 First Floor Unit 2 2 1 $315,000
Chatham Twp. 25B  Canterbury Road  $345,000 First Floor Unit, One Floor Unit 2 1.1 1 $327,500
Chatham Twp. 88 Canterbury  $399,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 1 $360,000
Chatham Twp. 54 Sterling Drive  $999,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 4.1 2 $935,000
Denville Twp. 311 DALTON CT  $289,900 Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 1 $265,000
Denville Twp.  511 KNOLLWOOD CT  $300,000 Multi Floor Unit, Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 1 $290,000
Denville Twp. 1208 WINDSOR CT  $359,900 Townhouse-End Unit 4 2.1 2 $352,000
Denville Twp. 7 BRIARWOOD LN   $645,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 3.1 2 $610,000
Dover Town  54 E BLACKWELL ST APT C   $229,900 See Remarks, Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 0 $215,000
East Hanover Twp. 8-2 Dara Drive  $225,000 One Floor Unit, See Remarks 2 1.1 1 $192,500
East Hanover Twp.  14-2 DARA DR   $274,900 One Floor Unit, Townhouse-End Unit 2 2 1 $235,000
East Hanover Twp.  18 JENNIFER DR   $318,000 One Floor Unit, Townhouse-Interior 2 2 0 $314,000
East Hanover Twp. 30 RUBY LANE  $325,000 One Floor Unit, Townhouse-Interior 2 2 0 $285,000
Florham Park Boro  58 BROOKLAKE RD   $369,900 One Floor Unit 2 1 1 $409,000
Florham Park Boro  58 BROOKLAKE RD   $379,900 One Floor Unit 2 1 1 $360,000
Florham Park Boro  58 BROOKLAKE RD   $409,000 One Floor Unit 2 1.1 1 $409,000
Florham Park Boro  11 CASPER CT   $599,900 Multi Floor Unit, Townhouse-End Unit 3 3.2 2 $570,000
Hanover Twp. 3202 Appleton Way  $349,999 Multi Floor Unit, Townhouse-Interior 2 2 1 $350,000
Hanover Twp. 410 PaperMill Drive  $374,500 One Floor Unit 2 2 1 $374,500
Hanover Twp.  1507 RIVEREDGE LN   $459,900 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 2 $425,000
Hanover Twp. 502 Spring Hollow Drive  $499,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.1 2 $648,649
Harding Twp.  17 BEECH LN   $449,999 Multi Floor Unit, Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 1 $440,000
Jefferson Twp. 1 SCHOFIELD CT  $279,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 2 $255,000
Lincoln Park Boro  208 ROBERTSON WAY   $259,900 First Floor Unit, One Floor Unit 2 2 0 $250,000
Lincoln Park Boro  153 HARVEST LN   $259,900 First Floor Unit, One Floor Unit 2 2 0 $252,000
Lincoln Park Boro 293 GETTYSBURG WAY   $290,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 0 $283,500
Lincoln Park Boro  10 JEREMY CT   $399,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 1 $381,000
Long Hill Twp. 38 Stonehedge Rd  $469,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.1 1 $440,000
Madison Boro  2 AVERY CT   $585,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 1 $554,000
Madison Boro 4 ROLLING HILL CT  $610,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 2 $582,000
Madison Boro  19 ROLLING HILL CT   $615,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 1 $555,000
Mendham Boro  50 WEXFORD DR   $459,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.1 1 $440,000
Mendham Boro  34 PEMBROKE DR   $529,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 3 1 $510,000
Montville Twp.  136 CHANGE BRG UNIT C2   $249,000 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2 0 $235,000
Montville Twp.  85 HERITAGE CT   $399,900 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 1 $380,000
Montville Twp.  23 W SPRINGBROOK RD   $429,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.1 1 $400,000
Montville Twp. 1 JEFFERSON CT  $454,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 2 $421,000
Montville Twp.  10 ECKHARDT CIR   $459,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 2 $425,000
Montville Twp.  6 ECKHARDT CIR   $473,269 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 2 $428,000
Montville Twp.  90 WASHINGTON CT   $499,999 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 1 $469,000
Montville Twp.  18 HIXSON CT   $549,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 3.1 2 $525,000
Morris Twp. 5 CENTER AVENUE UNIT 3  $285,000 Townhouse-End Unit 1 1.1 0 $228,000
Morris Twp. 20 TIMOTHY CT  $385,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 1 $370,000
Morris Twp.  53 HANCOCK DR   $389,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 1 $370,000
Morris Twp.  6 ZAMROK WAY   $430,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 3.1 1 $410,000
Morris Twp.  20 SHELLEY PL   $459,900 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 1 $435,000
Morris Twp.  24 DAVENPORT PL   $475,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 3 1 $450,000
Morris Twp. 4 Sherwood Drive  $485,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 1 $462,500
Morris Twp.  29 SHERWOOD DRIVE  $679,900 Colonial, Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 2 $650,000
Morris Twp. 46 PIPPINS WAY  $699,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 2.1 1 $680,000
Morris Twp. 57 Sherwood Drive  $699,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 3.1 2 $680,000
Morristown Town  31 SUSSEX AVE   $299,900 First Floor Unit, One Floor Unit, Townhouse-End Unit 2 1 0 $292,000
Morristown Town 51 Mt.Kemble Ave 301  $328,000 Multi Floor Unit, Townhouse-End Unit 2 1 0 $320,000
Morristown Town  60E RIDGEDALE AVE   $339,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 0 $322,500
Morristown Town  13 FRANKLIN PL   $485,000 Townhouse-End Unit, Victorian 3 2.1 1 $463,000
Morristown Town  7 PROSPECT STreet 806  $519,900 Hi-Rise, One Floor Unit 2 2 2 $450,000
Morristown Town  110 SOUTH ST   $721,000 One Floor Unit 2 2 2 $721,000
Morristown Town  30 KING ST UNIT D  $749,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 1 $672,500
Mount Arlington Boro  40 HICKORY WAY   $369,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 1 $345,000
Mount Arlington Boro  33 LAKESHORE DR   $584,900 Townhouse-Interior 3 3.1 2 $560,000
Parsippany 2467 Route 10 Bldg. 6 Unit 1A  $174,500 One Floor Unit 1 1 0 $167,500
Parsippany  2350 ROUTE 10-D14   $196,900 One Floor Unit 1 1 0 $185,000
Parsippany  2467 State ROUTE 10,14-5B  $205,900 One Floor Unit 2 1 1 $210,000
Parsippany 2467 ROUTE 10 Bldg 14-1B  $210,000 One Floor Unit 2 1 0 $195,000
Parsippany  2467 Route 10 9-3B  $225,000 One Floor Unit 2 1 1 $215,000
Parsippany  70 PATRIOTS RD   $334,900 Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 1 $307,611
Parsippany  57 STOCKTON CT   $369,900 Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 1 $350,000
Parsippany 5 GORDON CIR  $444,999 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.1 1 $415,000
Parsippany 123 AUTUMN RIDGE RD  $495,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.2 1 $482,000
Pequannock Twp.  207 CHATFIELD DR   $269,900 One Floor Unit 2 1 0 $265,000
Pequannock Twp.  4406 TUDOR DR   $315,000 Multi Floor Unit, Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 0 $310,000
Pequannock Twp. 2801 TUDOR DRIVE  $385,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 1 $365,000
Randolph Twp.  8 KENSINGTON DR   $399,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.1 1 $385,000
Randolph Twp.  103 ARROWGATE DR   $400,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 2 $390,000
Riverdale Boro 5105 SANCTUARY BLVD  $249,990 Townhouse-Interior 1 1 1 $249,990
Riverdale Boro 332 Cannella Way  $314,500 One Floor Unit 2 2 0 $285,000
Riverdale Boro  26 ROCK CREEK TER   $444,900 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.1 1 $432,500
Riverdale Boro  22 ROCK CREEK TER   $449,900 Multi Floor Unit, Townhouse-Interior 3 3.1 1 $435,000
Rockaway Twp. 1109 CLINTON LANE  $165,000 First Floor Unit, One Floor Unit 1 1 1 $157,000
Rockaway Twp.  3206 CLEVELAND LN   $199,000 One Floor Unit 2 2 1 $190,000
Rockaway Twp.  2311 JOHNSON DR   $229,900 One Floor Unit 2 2 1 $265,000
Roxbury Twp.  92 WOODS EDGE DR   $250,000 Multi Floor Unit, Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 1 $245,000
Roxbury Twp. 105 WOODS EDGE DR  $269,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 1.1 1 $257,000
Roxbury Twp. 34 PONDSIDE DRIVE  $275,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 1 $275,000
Roxbury Twp. 4 PONDSIDE DRIVE  $275,000 Townhouse-End Unit 3 2.1 1 $275,000
Roxbury Twp.  95 AUTUMN CT   $299,900 Townhouse-End Unit 2 2.1 1 $280,000
Roxbury Twp. 140 Whisper Way East  $304,000 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.1 1 $290,000
Washington Twp.  12 SCHINDLER SQ   $215,000 Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 2 $205,000
Washington Twp. 43 Bennington Square  $249,900 Townhouse-Interior 3 2.2 1 $246,000
Wharton Boro  1590 TOPSIDE   $219,900 Townhouse-Interior 2 1.1 1 $215,000

Smitha Ramchandani is a licensed real estate Broker-Salesperson in Morristown, New Jersey. She is a Buyer Specialist and a Home Marketing Expert.. You can reach Smitha and her team online at: or or or or or or